Frequently Asked Questions

Manhattan, Kansas. We pour and repair concrete in Manhattan, KS in Riley and Pottawatomie counties and in nearby Flint Hills towns such as Junction City, Wamego and Ogden.

HomeGuide's national figures put a plain concrete driveway at about $6 to $10 a square foot installed and a plain patio at $4 to $12, with stamped finishes costing more. Your price depends on size, access, tear-out, thickness and finish, so we quote in writing after seeing the site.

Yes. One sidewalk square, a few front steps, a shed pad or a small patio are all worth a call. Expect a higher price per square foot on small jobs, because forming, setup and the truck cost about the same whatever the size. Grouping a couple of small projects into one pour often saves money.

A 2016 Manhattan Mercury article said Kansas law (K.S.A. 12-1808) makes the adjacent owner responsible, that the city's code services department issued notices and inspected repairs, and that the city paid only when city utilities or city-owned trees between curb and walk caused the damage. Rules can change, so confirm with the city. We can replace the squares and work to your notice date.

Spring and fall are easiest, since temperatures are mild and the concrete dries at a steady pace. In summer we pour early in the morning to stay ahead of the heat. In winter we need a mild enough stretch plus insulated blankets so the new slab doesn't freeze. Either way, the forecast sets the date.

A slab that is solid but has dropped may only need leveling or crack repair. HomeGuide's leveling guide suggests replacement when cracks are wider than about a quarter inch or the concrete has heavy spalling or surface damage. We'll give you our view once we've seen it.

Rough guide: foot traffic after a day or two, a car on a new driveway after about a week. Concrete keeps getting stronger for roughly a month, so keep heavy trucks off until then and hold off on sealer.

HomeGuide's guide says at least 4 inches for passenger cars and 5 to 6 inches for RVs or heavy trucks, with thicker edges. We often add depth at the apron, where tires turn, and wherever a truck sits.

Removal, base prep and the pour usually span a few days, depending on the size of the driveway and the weather. After that, plan on about a week before parking on it.

We do not recommend it for a cracked or settled driveway. The new layer follows the old cracks and sits on the same failed base. Removing the old slab and fixing the base costs more but lasts much longer.

That depends on the town and on whether the work touches the street, the curb cut or the public sidewalk. We ask the City of Manhattan or your town before setting a pour date.

Concrete shrinks while it cures and expands and contracts with temperature. A joint is a deliberate weak line, so the crack forms straight and out of sight inside it rather than wandering across a panel.

HomeGuide gives 4 inches as standard for a home patio and 6 inches, with more reinforcement, under heavy loads such as a hot tub. We size the slab to what will sit on it.

Concrete is a single continuous slab, so there are no gaps for weeds and no individual pieces sinking. Pavers can be pulled up and reset, which helps if you expect to dig under the patio later. For a low-upkeep surface, concrete is usually the simpler choice.

Yes, if the old slab is sound. We drill and set dowels into its edge so the two sections move together and stay level.

Walk on it after a day or two; bring furniture out after about a week. Hold off on a hot tub or other heavy load until it has fully cured.

Yes, if it is built right and kept sealed. Air-entrained concrete, a good base and a fresh sealer every few years are what keep it from flaking in freeze-thaw weather.

Sealer can make it slippery when wet. On walks, steps and around pools we add an anti-slip grit to the sealer and steer toward textured patterns.

HomeGuide's patio guide lists stamped patios at $9 to $30 a square foot, compared with $4 to $12 for plain. Pattern, color and project size account for the gap.

True stamping happens in fresh concrete. An existing slab can get a stamped overlay or a stain, but only if it is sound. If it is cracked or sunk, replacement makes more sense.

Kansas law (K.S.A. 12-1808) assigns it to the adjacent owner. A 2016 Manhattan Mercury article said the city's code services department issued notices and inspected repairs, and paid only when city utilities or city trees caused the damage. Rules may have changed since, so confirm with the city; we check before starting.

A slight lip can sometimes be ground off or the low side raised. Broken squares, big height differences or squares heaved by roots usually have to be replaced.

The soil next to a foundation is often loose backfill. Over the years it settles, and the steps go with it. Water and freezing make it worse. The fix is usually new steps on a compacted base, tied to the house where it fits.

Usually after a day or two. We keep it blocked off until then and let you know when it's ready.

We can plan the steps so a railing mounts cleanly. HomeGuide's steps guide lists railings at $20 to $250 per linear foot, depending on material.

Four inches is common for floors that carry cars, with thickened edges under the walls where required. Shops with lifts or heavy equipment often go to 5 or 6 inches. We size it to how you'll use it and to local rules.

Detached garages often need a building permit, and larger sheds can too. Manhattan, the counties and the surrounding towns each set their own rules, so we check before we pour.

Framing can often start after several days, but concrete keeps gaining strength for about a month. We will give you a date based on the weather and the load.

For an enclosed garage, shop or any floor you want dry, yes, because it blocks ground moisture from wicking up. Open carports and simple pads often go without.

Narrow cracks in a solid slab can be cleaned out and sealed. When cracks are wider than about 1/4 inch, panels have dropped or the surface is badly flaked, replacing the failed sections is usually cheaper over time.

Both lift a sunken slab by filling the void under it. Mudjacking pumps a cement slurry; polyjacking injects expanding foam through smaller holes. HomeGuide lists foam at roughly twice the cost per square foot and notes it often lasts longer.

That's scaling. It usually happens when freeze-thaw and de-icing salt hit a surface that wasn't air-entrained, was finished with extra water or was never sealed. Light scaling can be resurfaced; heavy scaling usually means replacement.

New concrete is lighter than old at first and never matches perfectly. It blends in over time. Replacing whole panels joint to joint looks cleaner than patching the middle of a slab.

Yes. If the steps are sound, leveling can work. If they are cracked through or badly tipped, we rebuild them on a compacted base.